Inorganic Acid Technology (Ethylene Glycol) Unfortunately, the boiling point of alcohol was much lower than water, which would mean the resulting mixture would also boil very early (around 80 degrees Celsius), needing frequent top-ups. Alcohol formed a mixture with water which would lead to a “depression” in freezing point, thereby preventing freezing. In order to overcome the former, alcohol was added to water and used as a coolant. This would also impact the heat transfer (by forming oxides) and cause issues in both the radiator and engine block. This rust would eventually choke the radiator over time too. Secondly, water would react with the iron present in the engine block and form rust. This means it would freeze and block cooling system pipes and radiators in the winters. ğirstly, water has a comparatively high freezing point of 0 degrees Celsius. There were two downsides or shortcoming however: The high specific heat capacity ensured it could transfer a large amount of heat easily from the engine block to the radiator. Water with its high specific heat capacity (which basically means it needs a lot of heat in comparison to other liquids in order to raise its temperature by a specific amount) was perfect for car radiators in theory. In the olden days, the word “coolant” simply implied “water”. It’s a fluid that is second to only engine oil in an internal combustion engine, yet is ignored most of the times. A very simple yet crucial component in the era of modern (comparatively) high compression ratio engines. Thanks to him for the expert inputs!Ĭoolant. In either case the red was always good for me in the 22R-E with old school rad and heater core, so I stuck with it.Īll of it has me of the mind to fill everything with distilled water and move to a place where it never goes below freezing.This thread has been jointly compiled with bhpian Vigsom. They are also constantly tinkering with service intervals and I wonder if that's got to do with the length of time the protection lasts as the metals present in the engines changed. With all new cars having no brass left there's no reason for IAT at all and I wonder if the Toyota red/pink have slowly changed over the past 20 years to accommodate that. With an aluminum head my feeling is low-silicate OAT to protect the long block but a true OAT would lead to earlier failure of the brass, thus Toyota's specifying a hybrid that is supposed to split the difference when they still used brass components. The traditional IAT green is fine, probably the best choice, for an iron block, iron head, brass radiator like the FJ40. Don't worry about the color so much but the formulation. Are the radiator and heater core in an 80 brass or aluminum? If it's aluminum you want OAT most likely. Since I do not want silicates in my engine I have decided to swallow the Mama Toyoda price and I did a very early flush because I've seen with my own eyes the gray sludge you get with incompatible IAT and OAT types are mixed. In this case I want the coolant to be uniform and the only way it seems you can guarantee formulation is to either pay for the overpriced Toyota red or pink or do a complete conversion to Prestone. I did another flush and fill with Toyota pink recently. ![]() No one could tell me if it was OAT green or not so the dealer flushed and refilled with Toyota red. My Taco had green in it when I bought it. So I'm not sure what you get anymore without reading the label at the NAPA and consulting your chemical handbook. In a Honda the two green coolants would not be compatible. The old green used to mean straight up inorganic silicated ethylene glycol G-05 but now some brands, like Honda, have an OAT green. You can't trust the color anymore, there is hybrid OAT green now.
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